DTAForum.com - a forum for the DTA ECU

On the subject of wire, does anyone know of a jacketed non-screened twisted pair supplier? I struggle with getting twisted pairs into dr25 and if a premade option exists I would like to try it.

Hi, do you still need this ?

My used s60 came with a VX turbo map, so may be of use? I haven't run this map so very much buyer beware, but happy to send it if it might be useful.

Ian

Hi All the DTA S60 on my project Caterham is firmware version 52.00 on hardware version 5. I need to update to complete my engine swap from VX to Duratec, so need to update the firmware (or find an old version of DTA Swin). First thing I need to do is make up a Flash lead. It looks like the shells o...

Hi All

Anyone know if the Duratec COP connector uses superseal pins? I am converting to COP and have the old connectors that came with the coils, but need to re-pin them. They "look" like superseals, but just want a sanity check.

thanks

Ian B

Cheers Alex

I need a few odds and ends so If I drop you an email list could you put a quote together?

How many colours of 22awg do you offer?

Ian B.

Hi All

Do DTA still offer pre-pinned wires? I couldn't see them on the DTAfast website, but they may be located in a bit I didn't look at? I've lent my ecu pin crimp tool to someone so pre-pinned would probably be easier than messing around with non-ideal tools.

Ian B.

Hence the correct tool, which is a tubular support, with an internal push rod to pop the pin out.

I use a tool to push the pin out after leaving a badly crimped pin in the housing when pulling the wire, but the tool is generic and a bit too big and a tight fit, so just wanted something designed for the job.Having said that a paperclip seems to work quite well pushed inside the pin.

Is there a recommended TE tool for releasing the Superseal 1.0 terminal from the connector shell? I have a tubular tool that kind of works but it doesn't feel quite right and needs a bit of force. I have seen this one 189727-1 from TE that looks like it should work, but not sure it is correct?

I have no chance of a claim anyway, there are 2 welded in bungs, one in number 4 primary which is too close to the head, and the other is in the collector but points downwards at about 8.00 O'clock, so which is "better" the one that will overheat the sensor or the one that will allow conde...